After researching on the internet for a few more impressive
ideas I came across this tutorial.
http://www.webdesign.org/photoshop/photoshop-basics/create-a-nebula-cosmolady-in-photoshop-tutorial.20321.html
The links for resources on the tutorial were all broken.
It became clear that I wasn’t going to be able to find the images as they had been removed for copy right reasons.
I would have to source my own images of nebula.
The links for resources on the tutorial were all broken.
It became clear that I wasn’t going to be able to find the images as they had been removed for copy right reasons.
I would have to source my own images of nebula.
There
was also 3d rendering in the tutorial for some 3d shapes to make the image seem
more abstract and unreal. I felt that
this wouldn’t be required with my own image as I was going for a more classic
movie poster feel.
The tutorial was good so decided to draw some inspiration from it. Along with these covers that so where im heading.
The tutorial was good so decided to draw some inspiration from it. Along with these covers that so where im heading.
Firstly I started a new canvas sized 13cm by 18.2cm I set
the resolution to 300 pixels per inch and the colour mode to CMYK .Then using
the paint bucket tool filled that in with a black background.
I then placed the image named “cosmos xiii by redden” (layer
named nebula 1) in the bottom of the page the image was then layer was
duplicated.
The image transformed
(Ctrl+ Alt+ T) and filled around to fill the whole page. The blending option
was changed to screen on these layers, this will lighten the image without
losing the darkest areas or blacks. This blending option is commonly used to
restore lost highlights when cleaning up old photographs or to clean up
underexposure.
A new layer was created called Nebula 2and used to fill out the composition. In the top right of the screen I loaded in a photo from the NASA website Nebula Gabriela mistral. This was transformed and moved in to position.
The blending option was set to lighten for these layers as it wasn’t so important to preserve the dark areas.
Levels were then used (Ctrl +Alt + L ) to make colours more intense as the screen mode had lost some colour.
The next step was to create a layer mask for each of the Layers that had been made. This was done by selecting the layer and pressing the box with a circle in side on the bottom of the layers box.
After selecting the layer mask.
Using brushes set with smooth edges and the opacity dropped down to 40%.
Making sure only the black I removed the hard edges from the images. And used this to mask out clashing overlaps or restore parts of the image. This helped blend the images together.
It was important to use the layer masks as I wasn’t sure how much of each image I wanted to show through. And I wanted to be able to change my mind and go back and mask out or unmask bits as I saw fit.
I then
Selected all layers (Ctrl + A) and (Ctrl +Shift +C) and pasted them on top of
the other. The layers then merged them to one layer. The blending mode was then
set to screen and layer mask selected.A new layer was created called Nebula 2and used to fill out the composition. In the top right of the screen I loaded in a photo from the NASA website Nebula Gabriela mistral. This was transformed and moved in to position.
The blending option was set to lighten for these layers as it wasn’t so important to preserve the dark areas.
Levels were then used (Ctrl +Alt + L ) to make colours more intense as the screen mode had lost some colour.
The next step was to create a layer mask for each of the Layers that had been made. This was done by selecting the layer and pressing the box with a circle in side on the bottom of the layers box.
After selecting the layer mask.
Using brushes set with smooth edges and the opacity dropped down to 40%.
Making sure only the black I removed the hard edges from the images. And used this to mask out clashing overlaps or restore parts of the image. This helped blend the images together.
It was important to use the layer masks as I wasn’t sure how much of each image I wanted to show through. And I wanted to be able to change my mind and go back and mask out or unmask bits as I saw fit.
The layer mask was then filled black and using the white brush with a low opacity of about 20-30 % and soft edges to reveal the image and highlights below.
Using the dodge tool with highlights selected set to about 20% with a changing brush size I brightened some areas. The adjustment layer was then selected to play with the hue saturation to really make some of the colours pop out.
The back ground was now completed.
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